Reverse Bleed Your UTV

This cry for help sound familiar? 

“I’ve spent at least 12 hours trying to bleed the brake lines on my UTV, but the pedal still goes to the floor. Today I went to the store to get a vacuum pump. I must have run 3 bottles of fluid through the system and still nothing. What am I doing wrong?”


Getting a perfectly firm pedal is a must have when out exploring new trails and flying through your favorites at top speed. Many people are having a hard time getting all the air out of their lines using traditional bleeding methods leaving a mushy pedal.  There is really only one proven way to get that perfect pedal every time and that is by reverse bleeding the brakes.  Reverse bleeding was originally designed for tough-to-bleed cars and trucks but recently it has been reveled as the only way to go with the fast growing UTV market. 

Reverse bleeding pushes the trapped air, that can be so hard to get out with the abrupt curves in the brake lines, up and out the master cylinder.  The air is naturally trying to rise and trying to pull it down when it doesn’t want to go that way can sometimes feel impossible. Working with this flow, as opposed to against it, results in a one man 5-10 minute process instead of potentially endless shenanigans. This reverse bleeder is perfect for UTV techs and weekend warriors alike. 

Click Here to learn more about reverse bleeding process.


It is true that brake jobs can be done with basic tools but it is also true that you can take a file to your knuckles and punch calipers in your spare time. Life is full of choices that all have consequences positive or negative. This list will help you make good choices, cuss less, and smile more.

1. A ratcheting pad spreader like this one from Blue Point. Yes, a C clamp and other things work but this makes life so much easier and much more efficient.

2. A bleeder that works every time. Having one tool that does the job of 4 is as good as it sounds. This bleeder can be used to reverse bleed, vacumn bleed, pressure bleed, and bench bleed.


3. Wind down wasted time in your shop with a Pneumatic wind back tool. Hook it up to an air hose and a couple turns later you are ready to drop those pads in. 

4. No one wants to work on drum brakes but the reality is you probably can’t avoid it. A simple kit like this one can make all the difference.

5. A rusted bleeder screw can really slow the process up and cause frustration. The Break Free goes in an air hammer and helps make loosening the bolt/screw quick and easy.

There is a lot to deal with as a mechanic and it is hard work. If anyone deserves to have a slight edge it is you, the list isn’t exhaustive but it gives you a start. Anything to add to our list? Comment below. Click on any of the pictures for more info. Good luck!

Can You Reduce Automotive Comebacks To Just 1%?

Image result for angry customer automotive

Does your shop have too many comebacks? 


Common reasons for comebacks 

All auto shops have had exceptions to the rule, but generally comebacks can fall into one of three categories.

  1.  Miscommunication between Techs, Service Advisors and Customers
  2.  Inadequate quality control system in place
  3.  Improper tools or parts


Get communication right!  Make sure to communicate the system you want to use in the shop with clarity.  The expectations should be clear.  The right system will have technicians and managers communicating as frequently as possible. Most successful shops use an inspection checklist on paper or electronic form.

Image result for automotive shop meetings

Try this.  Chances are there is a training problem that, if solved, will reduce comebacks.  As a team,  you can implement a new comeback prevention system or improve your current one. If you want to make this transition smoother try creating a small survey asking the shop team who the responsibility of comebacks should fall on, what could be done to reduce comebacks and how to effectively work through them. The accountability will be much clearer and help slow down the diagnosis process to make sure things get done right the first time.  After collecting information from your survey help guide your team toward an efficient comeback prevention system. Training could take place with a team meeting and followed up with an improved inspection checklist.

Some ideas include:

  • Calculate comeback rate.  For comeback rate you can divide the customers that came back by the total number of customers.
  • After every vehicle is completed a manager or someone who didn’t perform the work can inspect the work.
  • The hours lost for the mistake could be deducted from the employee responsible for the comeback.
  • Make sure the right tools and parts are used for the job. E.g. BrakeStrips are proven to reduce comebacks significantly by providing a visual aid for the customer.  Learn more here.        
  • Religiously keep track of where and with which services the comebacks are occurring.  Consider discontinuing a service that often results in a comeback. 

Are you selling a “Phony Flush?”

Are you selling a “Phony Flush?”

Are you selling a “Phony Flush?”

Changing Brake Fluid is an important service for the safety and longevity of our vehicles. However, it can be difficult to determine when the right time is to change the fluid. Many service centers offer a “Phony Flush” by recommending an un-needed service.  Or they send customers home without properly diagnosing worn out brake fluid which does need to be changed.

Common unethical methods used to validate a need for changing brake fluid:

Looks Dirty

Rubber brake lines and fittings will often discolor brake fluid in a brand new vehicle. Changing brake fluid based upon color is too subjective and unethical. This includes using bottles, trays and paper to show the color of the brake fluid.

Smells Bad

I don’t believe many of us know what brake fluid should or should’nt smell like. The smell is surely not a good reason to change brake fluid.

Has Moisture

Moisture does not equal boiling point. Most brake fluid with up to 3% moisture will Not fail a boiling point test. There is No standard for changing brake fluid based upon moisture content. Moisture pens are known to fail brand new brake fluid.

Because I Say So

We realize there are master mechanics with an unlimited amount of knowledge, however science can now take the subjectivity out of a recommendation. It is time to get up to speed with today’s testing technology and make a proper recommendation.

Valid and ethical reasons to change brake fluid:


Different vehicle manufacturers have different intervals for changing brake fluid. Most Ford, Chrysler and GM models have No interval for brake fluid, while most European and many Asian manufacturers have an interval of somewhere between 15K to 24K miles. Making a recommendation to change brake fluid based upon an OEM service interval is a valid reason for service.

Boiling Point

Moisture does not equal boiling point. The best method for testing the boiling point of brake fluid is to use a boiling point analyzer. The DOT FMVSS standards state that DOT 3 brake fluid should not boil below 284° F. On average less than 4 % of vehicles on the road will have a boiling point below 284° F.

Copper Testing

Using copper testing technology to determine when to change brake fluid has become the most used and recognized standard to determine when to change brake fluid. Up to 50% of vehicles on the road today have enough copper corrosion in their brake fluid to keep them from passing the DOT FMVSS corrosion test. Testing brake fluid copper levels is part of the AMRA EUICS standards and helps a shop comply with the Automotive Repair Act of California. Copper testing brake fluid is also part of the inspection process for Firestone, GoodYear, Monro, Tire Kingdom, Jiffy Lube, Pep Boys, AAA and many other service centers.

Recommending a brake fluid service based upon copper content in brake fluid will:

 #1 Deliver the most ethical and legal method to determine when to change brake fluid.

#2 Provide a much greater level of opportunity than any other test.

#3 Give a better experience for the customer to see and understand why they should change their brake fluid.

Click Here to learn more about copper testing brake fluid.
How to build a Motorized Drift Trike

How to build a Motorized Drift Trike

Drift Trike Build

If you haven’t ridden a drift trike, then you’re missing out. With a few modifications and a $100 motor from Harbor Freight we have an almost too fast drift trike. “We are still trying to figure out the best option for front brakes.”

When considering this build we looked at multiple custom frames and considered building our own until we came across a post by HotRod magazine where they used a Razor Trike frame and added on to provide room for an axle and motor. With a little engineering of our own and some help from BMI Karts we managed to build a solid drifting trike.

Below you will find some images and a list of parts we used to make this build.

Razor Drift Trike

We purchased this Razor drift trike from Amazon. $119-$139

212cc Predator Motor

We purchased our predator motor from Harbor Freight. With a coupon you can usually get this motor for $100

#40 Roller Chain

We purchased our chain from Amazon. $13.58

Axle, Wheels, Sprocket, Clutch and Bearings

We purchased the majority of our parts from BMI Karts. We found their site to be the most comprehensive and their prices to be the best.

Below is a screenshot of what we ordered from BMI. We got an extra wheel hub to see if it could be used to mount an axle brake. We will update this post when our brake shows up in the mail.

Miscellaneous Items

Some additional items we needed were a twist throttle, a 100″ throttle cable, metal for the motor and axle mount and PVC pipe to put over the tires.

Motor and Axle Frame

We used the existing Razor frame and welded on foot rests, metal pipe and flat steel for the motor mount.

PVC Tire Sleeves

Sleeves can get a little pricy. Luckily we have a great plumbing supply neighbor next to our warehouse who gave us some unusable 10″ water pipe. The 10″ fits great over the 10″ tire, however one of the tires must have been a little smaller because it slid out of the PVC. We remedied the problem by applying 3M rubber adhesive to the tire and it no longer slides off.

In the future we are considering going to a larger tire and 12″ PVC to get a little more ground clearance.


Overall this was a fun build. If we build another we will definitely get our parts from BMI Karts, but would most likely opt to build our own custom frame and use a fat bicycle tire in the front with disc brakes.


BMI Karts

Harbor Freight


ABS Safety Precautions

ABS Safety Precautions

Problem: Potential safety risk and possible component damage

Cause: Not adhering to proper safety precautions when servicing ABS equipped



• NEVER open a bleeder valve or loosen a hydraulic line while ABS is pressurized. The accumulator must be depressurized in accordance with individual manufacturer’s repair instructions.

• NEVER disconnect or reconnect any electrical connectors while ignition is on. Damage to ABS control unit may result.

• ONLY use specially designed brake hoses/lines on ABS equipped vehicles.

• DO NOT tap on speed sensor components (sensor, sensor rings). Speed rings must be pressed onto hubs, NOT hammered onto hubs. Striking these components can cause demagnetization or polarization, affecting accuracy of speed signal returning to ABS control unit.

• DO NOT mix tire sizes. Increasing the width, as long as tires remain close to the original diameter, is acceptable. Rolling diameter must be identical for all 4 tires. Some manufacturers recommend tires of the same brand, style and type. Failure to follow this precaution may cause inaccurate wheel speed readings.

• DO NOT over tighten wheel lug nuts. Bent rotor or brake drum may occur, which can lead to inaccurate wheel speed readings.

• DO NOT contaminate speed sensor components with grease. Only use recommended coating when system calls for an anticorrosion coating.

• When speed sensor components have been removed, ALWAYS check sensor-to-ring air gaps when applicable. These specifications can be found in each appropriate article.

• ONLY use recommended brake fluids. DO NOT use silicone brake fluids in an ABS equipped vehicle.

• When installing transmitting devices (CB’s, bluetooth, etc.) on ABS equipped vehicles, DO NOT locate the antenna near the ABS control unit (or any control unit).

• Disconnect all on-board computers when using electric welding equipment. Alternate method: Place welding clamp as close to work as possible.

• DO NOT expose the ABS control unit to prolonged periods of high heat (185‘F/85‘C for 2 hours is generally considered a maximum limit).

• Do not disconnect the battery to clear codes. This only works on a small number of vehicles.

• Do not overfill the brake fluid reservoir. Follow manufacturers instructions.

Brake Job Done Well

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